Orginated in 2025, Graphic Laundry is an ongoing archival study of the power of expression through the graphic t-shirt. To submit images of tees, email graceantino23@gmail.com.
The t-shirt is arguably the most popular garment in the entire world. From humble beginnings as an undergarment worn by sailors in the early 1900s, to the global fashion phenomenon it is today, the t-shirt has a rich and fascinating history.
The modern t-shirt evolved from undergarments used in the 19th century. The one-piece union suit was cut into separate top and bottom garments, with the top long enough to tuck under the waistband.
These were first issued by the U.S. Navy around 1913, and would later be standard issue for all ranks in both the Navy and the Marine Corps.
The t-shirt's rise to popularity began during World War II when the U.S. Navy and Army began issuing them as standard undershirts. Returning veterans continued wearing their undershirts as casual outerwear.
The term "t-shirt" became part of American English by the 1920s and was included in the Merriam-Webster Dictionary by 1949.
The t-shirt gained iconic status through cultural influencers like Marlon Brando in "A Streetcar Named Desire" (1951) and James Dean in "Rebel Without a Cause" (1955).
By the 1960s, the t-shirt had become a means of self-expression, featuring everything from tie-dye and screen printing to anti-war slogans and band logos.
The t-shirt emerged as a powerful tool for political activism during the Civil Rights Movement of the 1960s, when protesters used simple slogans and graphics to amplify their messages. This tradition of wearable protest continued through movements like ACT UP in the 1980s and persists today.
From presidential campaigns to grassroots movements, the t-shirt has proven to be one of the most democratic and accessible forms of political expression, allowing individuals to literally wear their beliefs on their sleeves.
Band t-shirts became a cultural phenomenon in the 1960s when The Beatles pioneered music merchandising. By the 1970s, with the invention of the Dual Rotating Printing Press, band tees became both a crucial revenue stream for musicians and a way for fans to show allegiance to their favorite artists.
From vintage concert shirts now considered collector's items to modern artists creating entire fashion lines around their tours, music merchandise has evolved from simple promotional material to a significant part of popular fashion and music industry revenue.
From Katharine Hamnett's bold political statements of the 1980s to Paris Hilton's Y2K-era "That's Hot" shirts, slogan tees have served as both cultural commentary and personal expression. These text-based designs range from witty one-liners to powerful calls for social change.
The rise of social media has given slogan tees new relevance, as their easily readable messages translate perfectly to viral moments of self expression. Whether serious or playful, these shirts continue to act as walking billboards for the wearer's personality, beliefs, or sense of humor.
Today, the t-shirt is both a basic wardrobe staple and a canvas for artistic and personal expression. From high fashion to everyday wear, it continues to evolve while maintaining its simple, classic appeal.
The garment has become a global phenomenon, with the custom t-shirt market alone valued at billions of dollars annually.